Ushna

Indian inspiration.

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There’s no shortage of upmarket Indian restaurants in the capital; never one to miss out on the opportunity to taste a good curry, Abu Dhabi Week happily hot-footed it down to Souq Qaryat Al Beri for a slap-up meal at Ushna, their North Indian restaurant.

Ushna literally means “heat” or “flame” and the inviting interior styling reflects this perfectly with dimmed ambient lighting and warm hues throughout.

There’s a real buzz in the restaurant as we’re led to our seats with hardly an empty table to be seen and a number of Indian families happily tucking into their food: always a good sign.

For starters, we settle on the Machli Tawa Fry (griddle-cooked fish marinated in lemon juice, mustard oil and spices) and the Resha Galouti (shredded lamb patties and seasoned yoghurt, smoked with screw pine nuts). Both dishes are beautifully presented but the clear winner for us is the lamb patties which are succulently juicy and just fall apart with the slightest prod from our fork. They are served with a small cup of lamb jus – our extremely well-informed waiter tells us that some people find the Galouti a little dry but we’re struggling to believe it.

Relying on the expertise of our waiter for the mains, we sample the Gosht Khada Masala (lamb masala with cherry tomatoes, onions and ginger) and the Murgh Makhani (tandoori chicken in a creamy tomato gravy with dried fenugreek), accompanied by the surprisingly tasty Gobhi Ke Sabzi (cauliflower cooked with ginger and tomato) and the chef's speciality Dal Makhani (a black lentil preparation). Again, the presentation is fantastic and the subtly spiced dishes mouth-wateringly good, all mopped up with perfectly soft and warm naan.

Those looking to stretch stomach muscles have to indulge in dessert. The Malai Pista Kulfi (creamy frozen milk, flavoured with pistachio and topped with saffron, silver vermicelli and strawberry sauce) is ideal for those with a sweet tooth but the real treat is the ice cream – the date and the cinnamon flavours in particular are simply delicious.

Ushna is an all round delight. The setting is classy and the food is beautifully presented and wonderfully tasty; as far as good Indian restaurants go, Ushna will certainly put fire in your belly.

Jon Muller

What? Ushna
Where? Souq Qaryat Al Beri
Cost: AED 200-250 for three courses
Why? Light easy textures, farm fresh ingredients and deftly prepared curries with subtle rounded flavours
Why not? The food is delicately spiced - if you like a bit of kick then make sure you ask for extra chilli
We say: Cool restrained decor, healthy simple food - beautifully prepared and presented - and unobtrusive service are just a few of the reasons why Ushna is now our favourite Indian restaurant
Contact: 02 558 1769