Abu Dhabi Week lunches at Sevilla on some decidedly not – Spanish dishes

The name implies Spanish cuisine – after all, Sevilla (or Seville) is the capital of Andalucía and something of a gastronomic centre for southern Spain. But the menu at the restaurant in Al Raha Beach Hotel in fact offers a more general range. Asian, Italian and European – meaning everything from pasta to sushi.

The restaurant itself is bright and airy, thanks to a wide window and patio doors leading to a decked terrace area overlooking gulf waters. Or at least a strip of sand, a lagoon and of course an obligatory crane or two (as with much of the Abu Dhabi skyline at present). There is however an unbeatable view of Aldar’s impressive and nearly-completed headquarters, the disc which towers in the not-too-far distance.

Inside the venue, there’s plenty of potential; the grand dining area boasts high ceilings and massive space – but you can’t help but feel this hasn’t been fully optimised. A splendid open kitchen provides plenty of bustle from the chefs; but beyond this, Sevilla is a little lacking in atmosphere.

We dined at lunchtime, so it’s fair to say that the restaurant is likely to be busier in the evening – especially with a variety of themed nights on offer, including Fisherman’s Catch of the Day on a Thursday and a Middle Eastern Souk on Mondays. But lunch is a quiet affair, and the dated decor dampens a large and potentially pleasant space. Some fresh table linen, a lick of paint and a little modern creativity in interior design could really turn the venue around.
The food speaks a different language, though, and it’s clear that the chefs are dedicated to top-class cuisine. The restaurant offers a varied enough à la carte menu, but the buffet beckoned to us and we decided that topping up our plate for three courses is the wiser option.

And there’s plenty of choice. Starters include sushi, cheese platters and salad as well as a number of bite-size creations – including a spoonful of beef, swimming in a spiced mango chutney sauce, which is most definitely our favourite; despite the size, it’s full of flavour. The meat is tender with a hint of pink in the middle and the sauce offers a real punch.
Main course options are a little less exciting, with some of the usual suspects in each of the cauldrons, including a curry, couple of meat options and a pasta dish. We opt for roasted quail with an orange sauce and pile up the rest of our plate with a selection of vegetables, including asparagus, cauliflower and carrot.

There are no real grumbles, although we’re probably not the world’s biggest quail fans. Unsurprisingly, it tastes a little like chicken – and we’re thankful for the delicious orange sauce which lifts the overall taste. There’s also not that much meat around the bones and we’re definitely eying up the dessert selection before we finish it.

The choice there completely surpassed our expectations. Chef Yasser Ahmed is the pastry chef responsible, and his creative flair and enthusiasm for his creations is evident in each small dessert. Which is why we pick no fewer than five dishes to sample. The apple crumble, served in an egg cup, is light and bursting with fruit and a hint of cinnamon. Another firm favourite is a raspberry cheesecake mix (minus the biscuit base) served in a slim glass – fresh jam and cream.

The whole experience isn’t to be sniffed at. The staff are attentive, helpful and knowledgeable, and food is well-priced and varied. The main courses could do with a few additional and maybe more unusual options – but we’d happily skip in order to feast on the desserts time and time again.
It’s just as well that we couldn’t easily flag down a taxi upon leaving – we need a few minutes of sitting back and letting all five desserts nicely settle in our very comfortable stomachs.

What? Sevilla restaurant
Where? Al Raha Beach Hotel
Cost: From AED 135 including soft drinks
Why? Fresh food, great service and the best desserts in town
Why not? Getting a taxi to and from the hotel can prove something of a mission if you’re in a hurry
Rated: 7 out of 10    
Contact: 02 508 0555

Charlie Kennedy