Though the capital has seen a recent influx of fine dining choices, some of our old favourites are still worth a visit.

49ers is a slightly run-down Abu Dhabi institution, sporting a down-and-dirty, relaxed western theme. In short, there’s absolutely nothing pretentious about this sky-high saloon that affords an amazing perspective of Reem and Sowwah Islands and the marina in downtown Abu Dhabi.

Despite the spectacular view, 49ers is also home to some rather obvious flaws. They could use a valet (or six) as parking in this part of town is diabolical, and the service is tragically slow, especially considering the relative high server-to-patron ratio.

The menu is nothing to particularly rave about either. Most of the starters are the typical straight-from-the-freezer, deep-fried pub fare variety, and some are just downright silly, like the chicken lollipops and cheeky wings. The fried jalapeño hot bites need to be cooked a little longer to make them more appetising too. Most of the mains are hit or miss, and the burgers, which could be great in this traditional steakhouse, appear to come from frozen, pre-formed patties too.

So why bother? In a word, the steak. The real (ok, the only) star of the show is the selection of prime cuts of succulent beef, which you can choose yourself from the display case by the door, if you fancy. Sold by the 100 gram, the tenderloin is well known to have been consistently excellent for years, and at AED 36 per 100 grams, you won’t find a better deal in town.

Sure it’s nothing fancy, but in the same way the UFC winner embraces his defeated opponent, we’ll forgive 49ers for the same reason we’ll watch the fight – because it’s real.

What? 49ers The Gold Rush
Where? Al Diar Dana Hotel, Al Meena
Cost: Economical. Nothing was more than AED 100, and on Mondays, no steak is more than AED 69
Why? Excellent steak for remarkable value
Why not? The atmosphere is gritty and some people find the clientele at the bar next door offensive
We say: Good eating if you’re not looking for anything fancy
Contact: 02 645 8000

Laura Fulton