Plentiful portions of pasta and pizza? Abu Dhabi Week says Si to Italian cuisine at Prego’s

These days it’s easy enough to overlook the Italian option in favour of some slightly more exotic cuisine when choosing to dine out, but we’ll be happy to go back to basics after a European feast at the Beach Rotana hotel.

Prego’s restaurant itself is a very pleasing affair; an impressive entrance has racks of wine between breadsticks to affirm the Italian theme, while the large restaurant has plenty of seating both inside and out on the terrace.

The downside is that the large restaurant can be a bit quiet if it’s not well stocked with customers – a shame really as the high ceilings, tasteful décor and huge windows make for a really lovely dining experience ... and one that is perfect for filling with lively chatter.

The quietness probably explains the exceptionally helpful staff who jump on us as soon as we’re seated. It’s no bad thing, mind – we’re quickly served drinks and bread with an array of toppings (including a delicious black olive puree) while we glance over the menu. We’re also greeted by the very friendly (and eager) new General Manager, Neil Grosset, who, with his ever-so-slight Scottish accent, enthuses about the weather before promising even better things to come from Prego’s in the very near future.

And his promises are definitely more than halfway there. We order Spinosini al nero di seppia con gamberi, angel hair pasta with squid ink and dressed rocket – something of a staple in Italian cooking. The dish surpasses expectations; the pasta is topped with a huge king prawn while shrimps, tomato and rocket leaves float around in a generous olive oil dressing flavoured with basil and garlic. It’s a simple and tasty dish, and not too filling either despite the rich flavours and pile of pasta.

We also can’t resist trying the pizza calabrese. When it arrives, we discover the base is thin and crispy (much better in our view than a deep crust, which can be thick and stodgy) and the pizza spans the entire plate. While we know that there’s no way we can finish it all while leaving room for dessert, we don’t like the idea of sharing a single slice. With possibly the biggest slices of pepperoni we have ever seen and a splendid assortment of melted cheeses, it’s completely impossible to leave.

By the end of two big main courses we know we should really stop there. But hey, we’re here to review the food; and we’ve been told the restaurant’s signature dessert, the Prego tiramisu, is unmissable.
Served in a coffee cup and presented as a cappuccino, complete with chocolate sprinkles that spell out the restaurant’s name, it’s a real star. The difference between drink and dessert is that the spoon sinks into a light, creamy mascarpone cheese in place of milky froth. There’s a sweetened trace of espresso and when we hit the bottom to find a crumbly biscuit base we’re disappointed – but only because it’s finished.

All in all, dining at Prego’s is a pleasure. There’s a keen Italian talent in the kitchen and the staff go way beyond merely being courteous. The food, of course, is the real treat; and the range of dishes on offer means there are enough excuses to want to dine there again and again.

The only real disappointment is the quietness of the venue. The idea of eating in Italy conjures up images of a lively, bustling crowd all dining together. Add more people to the venue and it really will be bellissimo to dine at Prego’s.

What? Prego’s restaurant
Where? Beach Rotana Hotel Abu Dhabi
Cost: AED 207 for two main courses (shared) and dessert, 10 percent service charge and six percent tourism fee excluded
Why? More pizza than you can shake a crust at and an original selection of pasta dishes; leave your diet plans at home
Why not? A little lacking in atmosphere – but nothing that a big crowd of diners wouldn’t cure in this potentially pleasing setting
Rated: 7 out of 10        
Contact: 02 697 9000

Charlie Kennedy

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