Once a table has been reserved at the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse and Grill, it is yours for the evening and shall host no other diners. From the moment we were seated in the heavy leather chairs, we felt right at home; the generous use of wood inside the restaurant and the dark, rich tones makes for a luxurious air of easygoing comfort. There’s also a sense of real style, achieved through a combination of glass throughout the room and clever angles in some of the wood features.

We got a warm welcome – especially from Daniel, newly appointed head sommelier and master of his craft. Marco Pierre White focuses on grape beverages as much as food; Daniel is clearly both passionate and knowledgeable about the drinks on offer and when we left we had a slight sense of guilt that we were not able to challenge the depth of his cellar.

And the food was pretty good too. For appetisers we settled on a small Caesar salad, seared scallops and lobster with green pea purée, chanterelles cream and pan-seared duck foie gras with caramelised pear and warm raisins. As you’d expect from a Marco Pierre White meal, the presentation was exquisite – for all the courses, in fact – and the portions were rather more generous than we had expected. The foie gras was delightful, soft and creamy with a slightly bitter taste that was balanced by the sweetness of the pear and raisins. The seafood was stunning; the scallops and lobster tasted as if they had just walked out of the ocean and on to the plate.

For the main course we went for rack of Australian lamb rack and a 300g Australian Wagyu beef fillet, with sides of gratin dauphinois and asparagus tips.

The lamb was excellent – herb crust, interesting assortment of mustards, recommended to anyone who loves a chop. The steak however was the highlight of the evening, the tastiest and most tender we’ve ever had and cooked perfectly – seared exquisitely on the outside and was deep red on the inside. The truffle cream sauce that came with it probably wasn’t necessary; the taste of that steak needed no assistance.

So far, so good: appetisers and the meat courses should have been more than sufficient to satisfy even the healthiest appetite ... but after a (long) rest we were ready for dessert. Our waitress Rhoda's recommended the chocolate fudge cake, which was indeed very chocolatey and very fudgy – just as it should be. If you prefer a lighter end to the meal, our other selection is the perfect choice: Eton Mess was basically a pile of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and strawberries rolled into cream and meringue, with a far more orderly presentation than the name suggests. The taste was divine and its lightness made it the perfect dessert.

Macro Pierre White is a chef with an identifiable style, and on the whole his branded restaurants do a good job of promoting that style – relatively simple cooking with top-notch ingredients and interesting, apposite combinations. The good news is that he can’t afford to risk his reputation; no chef wants to be associated with pretentious over-priced failure. Marco Pierre White’s Steakhouse promises grills with Marco Pierre White quality; the good news is that this is exactly you get.

What? Marco Pierre White Steakhouse and Grill
Where? Fairmont Bab al Bahr, Between Two Bridges
Cost: AED 300 –500 per head for three courses, excluding drinks
Why? Probably the best steaks in town, probably the best sommelier
Why not? Needs budgeting for
Rated: 9 out of 10    
Contact: 02 654 3333

Alex Jordaan

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