Dubai-based fashion designer Katya Kovtunovich has built her eponymous label around one of the UAE’s most traditional fabrics — and in doing so, turned a cultural symbol into a global fashion statement.
Her brand, launched in 2014, is best known for flowing tunics and dresses made with Sadu, a Bedouin textile historically used for tents, carpets, and camel saddlebags. Over the past decade, Kovtunovich’s designs have reached more than 70 countries, worn by international stars including Lady Gaga, Andrea Bocelli, Lindsay Lohan, as well as senior UAE officials such as Ministers Ohood Al Roumi and Reem Al Hashimy.
“This black tunic with red Sadu embroidery is my best-seller,” Kovtunovich explained. “It has shipped to half the world. Women of all faiths wear it — some as abayas, others to the beach. For me, it’s cultural diplomacy.”
From Sakhalin to Sadu
Kovtunovich grew up in Sakhalin, Russia, in modest surroundings where she improvised designs from curtains, carpets, and her grandmother’s skirts. That resourcefulness, she says, sparked her creativity. Later inspired by British couturier Alexander McQueen, she moved to London with only US$200, juggling multiple jobs until she secured an internship at British Vogue.
Her fashion journey eventually led her to Dubai, where a visit to Satwa’s old souqs introduced her to Sadu fabric. Initially dismissed by critics as “sofa material,” she persevered, determined to give the fabric global recognition. In 2011, UNESCO inscribed Sadu on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. By 2014, her tunics had become her defining pieces.
Blending tradition and diplomacy
Kovtunovich’s respect for Emirati culture has been key to her success. She frequently consults with Emirati friends to ensure designs are appropriate and well-received. “If the Emiratis support what I do, that means everything,” she said. “I want Sadu to be a symbol of the UAE shared with the world.”
Her approach has earned endorsements at high levels. Her pieces have been showcased at Expo 2015 in Milan, Expo 2020 Dubai, and even the Burj Al Arab. Dubai Mall once hosted her pop-up kiosk, where she sold over 100 tunics in a week to international visitors.
A signature of timeless simplicity
Despite experimenting with different cuts, the original black tunic remains the brand’s signature. “Sometimes simplicity has the most power,” Kovtunovich reflected. Industry observers compare its appeal to the timeless Chanel bag or Diane von Furstenberg’s wrap dress.
Pricing her designs between US$250 and US$350, she positions the brand as “affordable luxury.” She is also outspoken about encouraging women to prioritise education and career development before fashion purchases. “Your story defines you,” she said. “Not your clothes.”
Looking ahead
In 2023, Kovtunovich joined the Dubai Future Fellowship under the patronage of Crown Prince Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, recognition she describes as “something you cannot buy.”
Her next ambition is to see her Sadu tunics recognised as an official souvenir of the UAE. “I want my designs to be the gift people take home, representing this culture with respect,” she said.
For Kovtunovich, the journey from a small Russian town to global runways and UAE cultural stages has been defined by creativity, resilience, and a deep commitment to bridging worlds through fabric.
